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Ficus: types, care, and why the leaves fall

Complete guide to ficuses: the four indoor types and what each one needs—light, watering, pruning, propagation, toxicity—and why they lose their leaves.

The Bloom Room Updated 7 minimum reading time

Ficus: types, care, and why the leaves fall

The ficus is the houseplant you recognize without knowing its name: it was in your grandmother’s home, it is in the hallway of your apartment building, and in half of Bucharest’s offices. However, the same name covers very different species—some forgive almost anything, while others shed all their leaves if you move them a meter. The guide below clearly distinguishes them and explains what each one needs.

What is a ficus?

Ficus is a genus in the Moraceae family, with approximately 850 species distributed across tropical and subtropical regions. The genus includes both the edible fig (Ficus carica) and decorative indoor species. In English, they are called fig or ficus, while varieties with thick leaves are called rubber plants.

All species contain latex—the white, sticky sap that flows when you tear off a leaf or cut a branch. This is useful to know for two reasons: it irritates sensitive skin and is why ficus is toxic to animals.

Types of ficus for indoors

Four species account for almost everything you find in shops in Romania. They differ considerably in their care requirements:

Ficus elastica — rubber plant

Large, thick, glossy leaves, dark green or burgundy in the Burgundy cultivar. The most resilient of them all and the best choice for beginners: it tolerates medium light, missed waterings, and dry air. It grows tall and, over time, loses its lower leaves—this can be corrected by pruning, which encourages branching.

Ficus benjamina — weeping fig

Small leaves and thin branches arching downward—that is where the name comes from. The most decorative and, by far, the most temperamental. It has a bad habit well known among growers: it drops its leaves at any change—moving to another room, a draft, a change in temperature, or even turning the pot. This does not mean it is dying; it will regrow its foliage in 4–6 weeks if you leave it alone.

Ficus microcarpa Ginseng

The one with the thick, swollen trunk that looks like a bonsai. That trunk is not actually a stem, but a thickened root, grown in a nursery and then raised above the soil. It needs good light and regular pruning of new shoots; otherwise, it loses its compact shape.

Ficus lyrata — fiddle-leaf fig

Huge, violin-shaped leaves. The most photogenic and the most demanding: it wants very bright indirect light, regular watering, and absolutely no drafts. Brown spots on the leaves almost always mean overwatering.

In short: if this is your first plant, choose elastica. If you want something decorative and have a stable place for it, choose benjamina. If you want maximum visual impact and have plenty of light, choose lyrata.

Ficus care

Light

Bright indirect light—near a window, but with no direct sunlight on the leaves. Direct summer rays scorch the leaves and leave discolored spots that do not recover. An east- or west-facing window is ideal; with a south-facing window, place it 1–2 meters away or behind a sheer curtain.

Rotate the pot a quarter turn every 2–3 weeks so the plant grows evenly. With benjamina, do it slowly and infrequently—it gets upset even by that.

Watering

Water when the top 3–4 cm of substrate are dry to the touch. In summer, this means approximately once a week; in winter, every 10–14 days. Use room-temperature water—cold water on the roots causes shock and leaf drop.

Let excess water drain away and empty the saucer. The ficus tolerates brief drought much better than roots left standing in water.

Humidity and temperature

18–24 °C. Below 12 °C, it begins to suffer. The biggest problem in Bucharest apartments is not temperature but drafts: an open balcony door in winter, with a benjamina nearby, means leaves on the floor the next day.

In winter, near a radiator, mist the leaves weekly or place the pot on a tray filled with damp gravel.

Substrate and repotting

Use universal potting soil for green plants, loosened with perlite and a little bark (approximately one part bark to four parts soil). The pot must have drainage holes.

Repot every 2–3 years in spring, using a pot 3–4 cm larger. For large specimens, instead of repotting, replace only the top layer—5 cm of substrate—once a year.

Fertilizing

Use liquid fertilizer for green plants at half the dosage recommended on the packaging, once every 3–4 weeks, only from March to September. Do not fertilize in winter—the plant slows its growth and salts accumulate in the substrate.

Wiping the leaves

Every 2–3 weeks, wipe the leaves with a soft, damp cloth, supporting the leaf with your other hand. It’s not just about appearance: accumulated dust reduces photosynthesis. Avoid commercial “leaf shine” products—they clog the stomata.

Why are the leaves falling off my ficus?

This is the number-one question about this plant, especially benjamina. The causes, in order of frequency:

  1. Changing location. Ficus calibrates its leaves to the light intensity in its current position. When moved, it drops them and produces new ones adapted to the new conditions. Choose a spot and leave it there.
  2. Cold drafts. A balcony door, an open window in winter, or air conditioning directed at the plant.
  3. Overwatering. The leaves fall yellow, while the substrate remains wet for days. Check the roots.
  4. Lack of water. The leaves fall when dry and curled, after turning yellow from the base upward.
  5. Adjustment after purchase. Almost any ficus brought home from a store will drop a few leaves during the first few weeks. This is normal—it is transitioning from a greenhouse, with high light and humidity, to an apartment.

Practical rule: if the plant loses a few leaves per week and produces new shoots, it is adapting. If it loses dozens and produces no new growth, check the roots.

Pruning and shaping the crown

Do this in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins.

  • Cut above a node (the point where a leaf emerges), leaving 5 mm.
  • Each cut stimulates 2–3 new shoots below it—this is how you get a dense crown instead of a long, bare stem.
  • The latex flows abundantly. Dab the cut with a tissue and wear gloves.
  • Do not remove more than one-quarter of the plant in a single season.

Propagating ficus

Using tip cuttings, in spring or summer:

  1. Take a 10–15 cm cutting with 3–4 leaves.
  2. Hold the cut end under lukewarm water for a few minutes until the latex stops flowing. If you skip this step, the hardened latex blocks absorption and the cutting will not root.
  3. Remove the lower leaves and place the cutting in water or directly into slightly moist substrate.
  4. Cover with a transparent bag to retain moisture, ventilating daily.
  5. Roots appear within 3–6 weeks. Elastica roots most easily, while lyrata is the most difficult.

Toxicity

Ficus latex is toxic to cats and dogs—it causes mouth irritation, drooling, and vomiting, and skin contact can cause dermatitis. In humans, repeated contact may trigger allergies, and people allergic to natural latex often also react to ficus sap.

If you have pets that nibble on plants, a non-toxic alternative is the spider plant.

Pests and other problems

  • Mealybugs — white, cotton-like clusters at the base of the petioles. Wipe them off with cotton wool soaked in alcohol.
  • Scale insects — hard, brown spots attached to the stem. Scrape them off manually and treat the plant.
  • Spider mites — fine webbing and leaves with speckles. They appear in dry air; increase humidity.
  • Leaves with brown edges — dry air or excess fertilizer.
  • Small, pale new leaves — insufficient light or depleted substrate.

Frequently asked questions

Why is my ficus losing its leaves?

Most often due to a change of location or cold drafts, especially in Ficus benjamina. Other causes include overwatering or underwatering and normal adjustment during the first few weeks after purchase. If the plant is producing new shoots, it is adapting, not in danger.

How often should ficus be watered?

When the top 3–4 cm of substrate is dry: approximately weekly in summer, and every 10–14 days in winter. The water should be at room temperature, and excess water must drain away completely.

Can ficus tolerate direct sunlight?

No. It needs bright, indirect light. Direct summer sun scorches the leaves and leaves permanent discolored spots.

What is the easiest type of ficus to grow?

Ficus elastica, the rubber plant. It tolerates medium light, irregular watering, and dry air much better than benjamina or lyrata.

Is ficus toxic to cats?

Yes. The latex in the sap causes mouth irritation, drooling, and vomiting in cats and dogs, and can cause dermatitis on contact with skin.

How is ficus propagated?

Using 10–15 cm tip cuttings, in spring or summer. Hold the cut end under lukewarm water until the latex stops flowing, then place the cutting in water or moist substrate. Roots appear in 3–6 weeks.

Where to find ficus plants in Bucharest

We have indoor plants at our flower shop in Obor, Șoseaua Ștefan cel Mare 234, with same-day delivery in Bucharest and Ilfov for orders placed by 4:00 p.m. Browse the indoor plant collection.